Option A — Training Wheels (Both Sizes)

1. Locate the rear axle. Use your 15mm wrench to remove the outer nut only. Set it aside.
2. Find the square alignment tab on the training wheel bracket. Slide it into the slot on the frame, then push the bracket onto the axle.
3. Replace the outer nut and tighten firmly. Repeat on the other side.

Option B — Kickstand (16" Model Only)

1. Locate the left rear axle. Remove the outer nut using your 15mm wrench.
2. Align the kickstand bracket tab with the frame slot and slide onto the axle.
3. Replace the outer nut and tighten firmly.

1. Check the tire sidewall for a direction arrow. If present, position the wheel so the arrow points forward.
2. Place the wheel into the fork, seating it evenly on both sides.
3. Slide the retaining washers back onto the axle. The tabs on the washers must face the fork and fit into the small holes on each side.
4. Tighten both axle nuts firmly with your wrench.

1. Loosen the stem bolt at the top of the stem 2–3 turns. Do not remove it completely.
2. Pull the plastic shipping cap off the bottom of the stem.
3. Insert the stem into the fork tube and push down until the minimum insertion mark is completely hidden inside the tube.
4. Align the handlebars straight with the front wheel. Tighten the stem bolt firmly.
5. To adjust handlebar angle: loosen the front clamp bolt, rotate to a comfortable position, center the bar, and tighten.

1. Find the marking at the base of each pedal thread. "R" = right side, tighten clockwise. "L" = left side, tighten counter-clockwise.
2. Start each pedal by hand. If it does not thread smoothly — stop. Back it out and try again.
3. Once hand-tight, tighten firmly with your wrench. The pedal base should sit flush against the crank arm.

1. Flip the quick-release lever to open. Slide the seatpost into the frame tube with the seat pointing straight forward.
2. Push down until the minimum insertion marks are fully hidden inside the frame.
3. Set height: beginners should have both feet flat on the ground. Intermediate riders — toes touch the ground. Advanced — slight knee bend at the bottom of the pedal stroke.
4. Hand-tighten the adjustment nut on the opposite side of the lever, then push the lever firmly to the closed position. It will feel stiff halfway — that is correct.

1. Inflate both tires to the PSI printed on the tire sidewall using any standard pump.
2. As you inflate, check the tire bead — the edge where the tire meets the rim — is seated evenly all the way around.
3. If the bead looks uneven: release air, press it into place, then re-inflate slowly.

Coaster Brake — Rear (Primary)

Nothing to install. Built into the rear wheel hub. To activate: pedal backward. The harder the backward pedal, the stronger the braking. This is the main brake for young riders.

Hand Brake — Front (Secondary)

1. Check that brake pads sit flat against the rim — not touching the tire above, not below the rim edge.
2. Squeeze the lever. The front wheel should stop completely.
3. When released, pads should spring back with approximately 1/16 inch (1.5mm) clearance on each side.

Front Reflector (White)

1. Slide the bracket onto the handlebar. Reflector face must point forward. Tighten the clamp screw.

Rear Reflector (Red)

1. Slide the bracket onto the seatpost below the seat. Reflector face must point rearward. Tighten the clamp screw.

Accessories

1. Stem cap: Press over the stem connection point until it snaps into place.
2. Bell: Slide the bracket onto the handlebar and tighten the clamp screw.
3. Number plate: Position on the handlebar, attach brackets with the Phillips screwdriver, tighten, and verify the plate does not press against any cables.

Run this check before every ride. It takes about two minutes.

A — Air

1. Tires feel firm when squeezed.
2. Tire bead is seated evenly on both rims.

B — Brakes

1. Pedal backward — rear wheel stops.
2. Squeeze lever — front wheel stops completely.

C — Chain and Cranks

1. Chain sits on the rear sprocket and moves smoothly when pedaling forward.
2. Pedals are tight with no wobble.